The scientific study has said that the universe expands day by day. Literally it may mean the abiotic component but the actual fact is that it is shrinking. Actually speaking the population of man in this universe is increasing greatly. Man being the one to create problem in every aspect of the ecosystem always tries to find an alternative to compensate the loss. Greenhouse is one such beautiful finding made by man to grow plants effectively. Greenhouse, by the name it suggests that it is a house for growing the green. Many would be familiar of the phrase, “Grow green or else we ruin”. Greenhouse has given each and every human being a wonderful platform to cultivate plants.
Basic forms:
An example of greenhouse cold frame application
A greenhouse has two basic forms. One is attached greenhouse and other is a standalone greenhouse. In attached greenhouse the power supply is supplied from the house itself where as in case of a standalone greenhouse the power supply and all the other accessories has to be supplied separately. These types of standalone greenhouses can be made where there is sufficient space to have an individual green house. Greenhouse can be built using either plastics or by means of glass. The photo chromatic technique that can be employed in glass makes it preferable over plastics. The basic concept behind the photochromatization is nothing but SMA. SMA is the abbreviation of shape memory alloys. Shape memory alloys are also known as super alloys. These substances have the natural tendency to adjust to the situations that prevail and act accordingly.
Basic models:
schmatics
The two basic models of greenhouse are cold frames and rack. Cold frames are set out in situations were there is less amount of space where as in case of racks ample space for setting of greenhouse is a must. The greenhouse cold frames constitute to the simplest and cheapest forms of greenhouse. By the name it suggests that it is suitable for growing of plants that requires cold climate. Cold frames are normally used for early sprouting of the seeds, growth of herbs and so on. It is so important for certain plants that the temperature within in the house doesn’t go beyond a particular temperature. So for cultivating those kinds of plants cold frames are very important. The glass panels adjust so as to allow only a small amount of sunlight to enter the greenhouse thereby preventing the damage of plants. Hence greenhouse cold frames are more preferred ones amongst the farmers.
One can winterize the present irrigation system. There are several simple steps to follow. The main valve can be turned off and the water flow can be controlled which flow to the irrigation system. There are several settings in the automatic irrigation controller and we can set it to “rain “settings for effective results. There are several valves present in the pipes. Just turn on the valves so that the pressure from the pipe is released. There are certain irrigation components which may freeze due to substantial circumstances. Draining water from such components will earn better productive results.
Locations of the irrigation system:
Based on the location of the irrigation system one can winterize the irrigation system. One is winterization of irrigation system during temperate climate and another is winterization of the irrigation system during cold climate. In the temperate climate zone usually substances do not freeze very often. Even if there is heavy snow in that particular area the snow melts off very quickly. There is no necessity to insulate the water pipes kept outside houses as it does not freeze very quickly. In this zone the water flow to the irrigation system is shut and an important factor is that the main shut off valve from where water flows to the irrigation system should be freeze-proof.
Steps to avoid freezing:
It would become a problem if the main shut off valve is not freeze proof and one should see that the valve does not break due to freezing. In case of an automatic system the timer should be shut off so that lot of electricity can be saved. The power given to the controller can be shut off as an alternative. There are chances for the pump to get damaged while shutting the controller off. The gear drive rotor sprinkler could freeze the water, so the water can be drained by using a drain valve installed in the pipe where water flows to the irrigation system. An alternative is that the rotor can be removed and water can be drained out to avoid freezing. The pipes can be insulated by sticking the foam insulating tapes above the ground pipes.
Insulation:
The air vents and backflow preventers should not be blocked. The best way to do this is to insulate the valve or backflow preventers using R-11 fiberglass. Heavy plastic bags provide an important means of insulation and that can be wrapped around the valves and backflow preventers. One should see that the air flow is provided in the plastic bags and it does not get wet to enable a permanent insulator. Since it is permanent one need not worry about changing the insulators very often as they will survive for a longer period.
Usage of compressors:
The scenario in the cold climate is totally different and one has to take considerate measures to protect the irrigation system. As told above the main valve should be closed and the timer should be shut off to gain electricity which greatly depends on the controller used whether it is mechanical or solid-state controller. The valves in the pipe should be removed and the water in the pipes should be drained or heating cables can be placed upon the valves and these heating cables are insulated. To blow water from the pipes special drain valves are used. The drain valve is installed in both high point and low points in the pipes and the valves can be put in an accessible box and the locations can be writer over box to avoid getting strangled in this climate. The water should be completely blown out and so making use of a compressor is a very good choice. Do not close the valves while compressor is running. When the blowing process is finished the controller is set to the “rain mode”.
Bell peppers, native to Central and North America, have always been a popular homegrown vegetables. There are various types of bell peppers; though they come in different shapes, sizes and colors (green, yellow and red), they share one same thing: rich in vitamin C. They can be used as ingredient in many dishes.
Growing bell peppers in a garden is really easy. Here are some simple tips you can use:
First, sow the seeds indoor eight weeks before the last frost. Put them in pots at least 2 inches in diameter.
Prepare the soil in your garden by putting plenty of compost and manure. Bell peppers just love a well-balanced soil. Do not plant the seedlings outside before the last frost. Bell peppers do not like too cold climate. Instead, they enjoy warmth. Thus, before you plant them outside, make sure that the soil temperature reaches at least 65OF. If it is still quite cool, it is okay to delay the planting for several days.
Leave gaps between seedlings at 18 to 24 inches each, and between rows at 24 to 36 inches each. This gap measurement varies according to the bell pepper variety.
Bell peppers love sunshine, but not too much for few varieties. Plant them in spots of your garden that receive at least 8 hours of direct sunshine.
Keep the soil well-drained, water your bell peppers well every day. Water them more in the hot, dry summer months. Otherwise you will obtain bell peppers with a bitter taste.
Cover the peppers with mulch to keep weeds out and to retain moisture. Use organic insecticides if ever needed.
Avoid putting too much nitrogen fertilizers into the soil since it will cause your bell peppers produce less fruits and more leaves. Keep the soil moist, never too sodden.
When it is time to harvest your bell peppers, cut the ripe ones about 1 centimeter just above the lids. Leave alone the remaining part of the plants, they will continue grow. The more you harvest, the more they bear fruits. So pick them as soon as possible!
If you find some unripe ones when the first frost is due, cut them, and then bring them inside to allow them continue the maturity process. Most bell peppers are green when they are not ripe yet. Mature ones may be orange, red, yellow, green or purple, depending on the variety.
